Hiroshima Part #1

I am continuing today with my retro diary of an April trip to Japan. The final stop on my three tiered jaunt through the land of the rising sun found me in Hiroshima. I doubt few adult people in the world can hear the name of this beautiful and charming Japanese city and not immediately think of August 6, 1945. Its a day when Hiroshima, chosen only because of cloud cover over another Japanese city, became the epicenter, literally and figuratively, of the world's glimpse at the incredible destructive power of the atom. It stands today, rebuilt, as a testament to the resiliency, fortitude and positive attitude of the Japanese people. While strolling through the tree lined streets of Hiroshima on a pleasant, sunny spring day, I was hard pressed to find residue of the the city's tragic past in the faces of the smiling Japanese people I passed, many of them offering a smile and a "Konichiwa". As an American, I expected to be treated much differently by the Hiroshima citizens, or at least the guilt I felt gnawing at my stomach, against common sense, portended a much harsher treatment. Instead, I was awed by the ability of the Japanese to forgive, and stunned with how they view the dropping of the bomb. After talking to several Hiroshima tour guides, it seems that they accept what happened as a consequence of their actions in the war, and deem it an acceptable price to pay for taking part in World War II. They harbor no ill will towards America, and in fact, have turned the greatest simultaneous mass human killing in history into a world wide cry for peace. When visiting the Peace Museum, one can't help but wonder if the entire world had the optimistic outlook and forgiving hearts of these Japanese people if war would be a thing of the past.
As I mentioned earlier, Hiroshima has been rebuilt, and appearances lead me to believe its a thriving, mid sized Japanese city, much like a Columbus, Ohio or Richmond, Virginia. There is, however, one stark reminder of this city's dalliance with the atomic devil. Its called the A-Bomb Dome, and its one of the largest structures in the city, hard to miss, but its size isn't what gripped me as I stared upwards at the twisted mass of metal near the top of the dome. Largely left untouched since that fateful day over 65 years ago, its a monument to the city, those killed by the bomb, and those that survive today. It is located only a few thousand meters from where the bomb exploded, and was one of the few buildings in the entire city left standing after the explosion. The Japanese originally wanted to tear it down, but as they came to terms with the disaster, they came to embrace this building, and its sobering glimpse at a horrific moment in history.

Elvis

Asia, and Japan in particular, is a strange place for Westerners. Asians have been exposed to Western culture and have inculcated Westernity(is that a word?) into their own cultures, but never in a predictable or rational way. Exhibit A of this strange mixture was the group of dancing Elvis's that I had a chance to see when I was in Tokyo. Wandering through a large park on a Sunday afternoon, I heard English music coming from one of the entrances to the park. As I got closer, I could tell that it was American 50's music, and even closer inspection showed a group of people dancing. Oh, but these were not just ordinary Japanese people dancing...no, this was a group of men, all dressed in black, with the pompadour hairdos and dance moves to boot. Apparently, they were having a "dance off" with another group of Elvis impersonators. I found that this goes on every Sunday, and has become something of a tourist attraction in this part of Tokyo. They were serious too...one man had his hand in a cast but was still jumping around and doing impressive dance moves, with little regard to the injured hand. Impressive....or something. I just wonder what these guys do during the week? Are these Japanese businessmen? Do they tell their families about this "hobby"? Do they dress this like this all the time? Do they impersonate other singers? Meatloaf? Elton John? Prince? Lady Gaga?

Cherry Blossoms

This will be the first of several retro blog entries pertaining to my trip to Japan in April. My trip was planned to coincide with the famous blossoming of the cherry trees that takes place yearly during the first week of April. The window to view these blossoms is very small, as the small pink flowers are at peak intensity for about a week, before falling off the tree. The Japanese treat this time of year as a celebration, gathering under the cherry trees with coolers full of Sake and sushi and enjoying the gorgeous views. It was almost sensory overload, as standing in the middle of a path lined with cherry trees on both sides, all one could see was a sea of pinkish flowers. The smell was also sublime, as the the vast number of blossoms inbues the air with a sweet and fresh fragance that takes over Tokyo.

The Fortune Cookie

I recently ordered Chinese food from an Asian restaurant down the street from my condo. This was to be my first taste of Chinese food since leaving China. I made sure to order two dishes that I ate all the time in China - egg fried rice and beef lo mein. After anxiously tearing open the containers and digging my fork(no chopsticks....I was too hungry) into the food, the first tastes revealed a lot. Not good:( I definitely enjoyed the Chinese version of each of these dishes much more than the American counterparts. I was dismayed at the thought that American Chinese food was ruined for me, that I would never again be able to enjoy the culinary treats offered at PF Chang's or some small dive Chinese restaurant. So the next night, I ordered from a different place, just to see if it was indeed American Chinese food itself, or perhaps(hopefully) just a bad restaurant. The second time around it was much better. I slept much easier that night knowing that two years in China hadn't irrevocably altered my Chinese taste buds. It also led to an interesting discovery. Fortune cookies aren't eaten in China, as most of you know, but its only at American Chinese places that they are given away. Notice where this fortune cookie is made...ironic, don't you think?